La Goutille |
Sunday, November 10, 2019
Part 2, day 14 : Les Cassès to Avignonet-Lauragais
The gîte La Passeur Elle in Les Cassès had been a nice haven. As I mentioned, dinner around the table with Isabelle also found me with three brothers from the Dordogne, Bernard, a Quebecoise named Dominique, and Francine from Moissac. It would be the last time I would see Bernard, and I would spend the next two days with the two women I met there, who had fast become friends. The three brothers had decided to take a shortcut and to squeeze two day's walking into one.
Isabelle told me about a shortcut to reach La Rigole, and the next morning I set out to find it. Along the way I ran into Dominique and Francine, and later on, briefly, Teri, who I was not to see again. It was difficult figuring out exactly where to leave the canal, but I finally figured it out, and made my way towards the Canal du Midi. Along the way, I ran into Dominique and Francine again in Montferrand, where we ate lunch at at bus shelter, and the three of us continued on together. After a relatively short walk along the Canal we then hiked an extremely long upward path to Avignonet to the gîte La Goutille, again in the heat of the day. Somehow the distances on a map seem a lot shorter than when actually walked by foot...
Part 2, day 13 : Sorèze to Les Cassès
The gîte Le Moulin du Chapitre had actually been an old mill, and the water ran right by the house. The place was a bit funky and somewhat bohemian, with all manner of collectibles, so that my eyes were running everywhere. The owners were locals and quite amiable. There was apparatus and other remnants from the old mill, antique French country furniture, knickknacks of all kinds, and extravagant colors.
From Sorèze it was a relatively short 5 km walk to Revel, a wonderful pilgrim-friendly place with hundreds of young people. On the outskirts I ran into a group of middle-schoolers doing research outdoors on a project. Walking into the town, a high school let out students on a break and groups walked animatedly towards the town center. I found an ATM, and stopped for coffee.
Afterwards it would be a long walk along a narrow canal called the Rigole, which, although completely with any helpful signage, was at least shaded. When I finally left its leafy cover for Les Cassès, the oppressive sun beat down and the last few kilometers slightly uphill were pure misery.
When I finally reached the village of Les Cassès, the gîte was another kilometer away, or so it seemed. The hospitalière, Isabelle Bosc, however, was a sweetheart, and saw to it that I had ice water for my aching feet. Isabelle, a former pilgrim walker herself, knew exactly what her guests needed.
the old millstone |
the ancient door to my room |
the stream by the house |
the room where I stayed |
you can barely make out the middle school children |
the walk into Revel |
Revel's hall aux grains |
Revel where I had coffee on the square |
La Rigole |
Scarecrows |
I approach my turn-of for the village of Les Cassès |
Because of the heat, it seemed a long walk from the turn-off |
Isabelle at La Passeur Elle |
Finally Les Cassès where I could soak my feet in cold water |
The evening meal was a communal occasion, and we were served a regional dish--a form of cassoulet. It was good to see Bernard again, and to meet the two women, one from Moissac, and the other from Quebec, whom I would stay with again the next evening. The three other French men in the photo were all brothers, living in different cities in southern France.
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Part 4 / Day 17 : Pamplona -- Biarritz -- return to Paris
I woke up early and made it to the bus station, stopping across the street for coffee and pastry. The Spanish gentleman who I attempted to t...